When you think of train beer, odds are you’re picturing a lukewarm lager in a brown paper bag or some questionable can picked up at the station. But Donzoko Brewing Company and Lumo have turned that image on its head with Train Beer—a pale ale designed not just for sipping on a train, but made specifically for that experience. It’s a bit niche, sure, but in the world of craft beer, that’s what makes it cool. So, I grabbed a can, grabbed a seat (sadly not on an actual train this time), and gave it a proper go.
Track Through History
Donzoko Brewing is one of those indie breweries with a proper underdog story. It started in a school changing room in Hartlepool, founded by Reece Hugill, who went from chemistry graduate to beer craftsman. After a stint brewing in Germany and a brief stop in Edinburgh, Donzoko settled in Newcastle’s creative Ouseburn district. Their focus? German-inspired lagers with a modern craft twist—and if you’ve had their flagship Northern Helles, you’ll know they’re not messing about.
The collaboration with Lumo, the eco-conscious UK rail service running between London and Edinburgh, kicked off in May 2023. The idea was to create something sessionable, flavourful, and just right for the kind of drink you’d want while watching the countryside blur past. Reece actually pitched the idea via a cheeky DM to Lumo’s managing director, and somehow it worked—resulting in Train Beer, a crisp, hop-forward pale ale brewed with Nelson Sauvin and Mosaic hops, fermented with Donzoko’s house lager yeast.
It’s served in 330ml eco-cans aboard all Lumo trains and has even been featured in local Newcastle venues as part of the “LumAle Trail.” It’s a rare example of a brand collab that doesn’t feel forced—and that alone is refreshing.
The Pour
Popping the top on Train Beer is a satisfying experience, and pouring it out reveals a hazy, golden-straw body that catches the light just right. It’s not opaque like a New England IPA, but there’s definitely a natural cloudiness that says “real ingredients” rather than filtered, polished blandness.
The head rises clean and white—fluffy but tight-grained—and it settles into a nice lacy foam that clings to the glass. It looks proper, like the kind of beer you could accidentally finish before you even realise you were thirsty. It has that lightly rustic, unfussy beauty that makes you want to grab a few more cans and sit outside for the afternoon.
The Taste & Aroma
Train Beer opens with a gentle nose—nothing too shouty, but definitely not shy either. Straight away you get soft peach, some citrus peel, and a whiff of gooseberry that gives it a tangy edge. The Nelson Sauvin hops shine here with that subtle white grape character, while Mosaic kicks in a hint of pine and melon. There’s also a background of bready malt—think water biscuits or soft wheat crackers—which balances things without weighing them down.
Taking a sip, you get more of that fruity complexity right up front. Peach and grapefruit show up first, followed by a lightly vinous note that brings in that crisp, white-wine dryness. It’s not juicy in a thick, smoothie-IPA kind of way—this is sharper, cleaner, and refreshingly understated. The mid-palate has a really nice roundness, like biting into a just-ripe melon or fresh apricot.
The finish is where the lager yeast earns its stripes. It pulls everything together into a dry, clean, gently bitter close that makes you want to go back for another sip. No cloying sweetness, no harsh hop burn—just a refreshing, crushable beer that balances flavour and drinkability like it’s no big deal.
The Verdict: 3.5 / 5
So, is Train Beer worth jumping onboard for?
Honestly—yeah, for what it’s aiming to be. It’s not the most complex beer you’ll ever drink, but it was never trying to be. It’s designed to be approachable, fresh, and unique to the rail experience, and on that front it delivers. I love that it’s not just another pale ale trying to be “craft”—it has a point of view, a purpose, and a clean execution.
That said, I gave it 3.5 out of 5. Why not higher? Well, as much as I appreciate the clean profile and the backstory, I felt it lacked a bit of depth. The hops are present but not pushy, and the finish—while clean—is maybe too subtle for my personal taste. I wanted a bit more oomph, something to really make it pop. But then again, I wasn’t drinking it at 125mph with a North Sea view out the window. Context matters, right?
As a train beer, it’s spot on. As a pale ale? Solid, refreshing, and sessionable. The kind of beer that’s perfect for the journey, even if it’s just from your fridge to your sofa.
Donzoko and Lumo took a quirky concept and actually made it work. Train Beer isn’t just a marketing gimmick—it’s a well-made, well-intentioned pale ale with a unique identity. If you ever find yourself on a Lumo service, crack one open, grab a window seat, and enjoy the ride. And if you’re not traveling? It still holds up at home.
Leave a Reply