North East Beer Review

A gem of brewery purchased from a gem of a coffee shop. Every time I visit Smoke and Sear with my girlfriend I have to get a can of Donzoko to go with a beef shin sandwich and hash browns. This time the Donzoko brew of choice is the Donzoko West Coast Style Pale Ale called Heartwood. This is brewed with newer fruiter hops which I will describe in the section below. Anyways, knowing Donzoko you will already know this was good, but how good is the question? To find out I will cover the history, the pour, the taste and aroma and finally my verdict.

A Toon based craft powerhouse

Donzoko Brewing Company was founded in 2017 by brewer Reece Hugill. Reece had aimed to bring together fermentation traditions from Germany with the modern creativity of UK and US based beers. The name Donzoko comes from the Japanese word meaning rock bottom which could indicate the down to earth nature. The brewery began life in Hartlepool, then spent some time in Edinburgh, and has since settled with a permanent brewery and taproom in Ouseburn, Newcastle upon Tyne.

Donzoko is known for its Northern spin on German style lagers such as the Northern Helles and the Big Foam Rustic lager which is immense. This involves cold fermentation and a crisp and clean character. Donzoko has also explored a wide range of styles such as Wheat beers, IPAs and also many collaborations with breweries such as Fell Brewery. Donzoko aims to combine respect for tradition with modern day craft beer inspired inspiration.

Donzoko Heartwood is a 5.5% ABV West Coast Pale Ale which explores Donzoko’s more ale roots rather than the lager they are known for. Heartwood is built on a piney West Coast Backbone along with utilising new hop varieties of Strata and Alora. Heartwood is designed to blend the West Coast bitterness with maximal fruitiness.

A bright pour

Heartwood pours a golden to slightly amber tone which has a delicate hazy appearance to it. The beer forms a foamy and bubbly white head thus being moderate in thickness and leaves a small amount of lacing down the glass. The carbonation is moderate and steady which a stream of bubbles visible throughout which makes this beer look quite appealing. Overall, this is quite a clean and well presented pour making it remarkably inviting.

Flavour Profile

Aroma

When it comes to the aromatics, Heartwoods unlocks a wealth of bright fruit flavours and the classic as expected west coast pine. Aromas of melon, strawberry and orange shine through which gives slight hazy vibes but is quickly pulled back by the pine. Furthermore, there is a resinous and herbal backbone as-well as a slight floral edge. The malt bill offers a slight biscuity sweetness beneath all the hoppy flavours. Overall, a very fruit forward take on a classic west coast style.

Taste

Moving on to the taste, Donzoko Heartwood pretty much echoes the aromatics. When taking your first sip, it opens with a major fruity note with flavours strawberry, melon and a touch of stonefruits. This is quickly joined by a piney bitterness which is clean and assertive. The malt backbone is light and offers a caramel biscuit like flavour. The finish is dry and crisp with lingering herbal resinous bitterness inviting you for another sip. Overall, this is a modern and fruity take on the West Coast IPA which had a deep depth of flavour.

Time for my verdict.

Donzoko is a brewery that releases consistent belter beers and being local to myself is an added bonus. This is one of many I have tried and this one is up there with the best. I think it provided a brilliant British take on the West Coast style whilst also adding modern hop forward innovation. Top notch brew as always and Heartwood deserves a 4.5 out of 5.

Where did I purchase this beer?

I got this beer on a date brunch with my girlfriend to Smoke and Sear. A place with excellent grub, a friendly atmosphere and locally sourced ingredients.

Thank you so much for reading my review. If you enjoyed my review you will love my review of Donzoko Edge of Town.